(no subject)
Nov. 23rd, 2005 07:16 pmFigured out mostly how all the heating stuff works here.
Still haven't figured out how to have hot water without heat; either you just turn all the radiators off (this doesn't seem to wnat to work with the ones in
mstevens' bedroom), or one of the switches that says "DO NOT TOUCH" is lying. We have options for constant heating, heating according to the mechanical timeclock, or no heating at all. At the moment it's on the timeclock. It's set to come on rather early at 6am (later than that and I have huge troulbe getting out of bed at 6.30, which I have to do often enough it's important), and then goes off again by 9am. It comes on again for 18.00 and then is off by 22.00; I have no idea whether this is 'normal' use of heating or not but it seems to leave the house tolerably warm for the times when people are in it (I don't mind the heating being off when I'm at home by myself in the day, I can always move around or use a hot water bottle or a fan heater or even switch it to constant for a few hours if I'm not coping at all - and my housemate is usually out all day at work), and we usually have enough hot water to do everything we need to do as long as washing people happens before washing laundry.
Figured out that the thermostat on the wall in the living room does do something after all - it regulates the temperature at which the pump comes on. With the pump off the house will still be heated some, because the hot water will all try to go up, but the pump means we can make lots of warm fast if necessary. So far it seems like the pump works pretty well, in that if it is left at a certain temperature the living room does indeed mostly stay at that temperature.
I've set it to 18C because I'm not feeling so ill with that nasty cold any more and though I'm having a hard time staying warm this year, I'd rather wear two sweaters than turn the heating up. All this talk of gas shortages and some of my students still insist on having their houses at 22C when there are no old/ill people around. Grah. I know an awful lot of gas is used for electricity generation and I know a lot of it is for industrial purposes but it doesn't help to have every household heating the great outdoors, does it? And with insulation what it is in this country, that's probably what happens most of the time.
So, the insulation to-do list, not necessarily in order:
-find where the draught in the loft is coming from and make it stop being a draught. It's probably the same place that bird got in a few weeks ago.
-make fleece curtains for the windows, lower priority goes to the ones in the porch and the loft (the porch has the inside door, and the loft window is double-glazed) than to all the others which are generally wooden sash windows with multiple panes of glass in each window
-draught excluder for the kitchen door
-shiny stuff to go behind radiators
-find various draughts in the kitchen and see if they can be stopped sensibly
-curtains for outside walls, like what
shevek did in Bath? I'm not sure of this. We don't have any outside walls that don't already have lots of windows. Getting the windows sorted is definitely more important.
There's already draught excluder on the front door and the loft is insulated.
Warm Front is a UK government program offering grants to households trying to increase their heating efficiency. They offer everything from energy-efficient lightbulbs and hot water tank jackets to financial help with installing things like condensing boilers, loft insulation and cavity wall insulation.
Bear in mind that even if heating costs don't go up dramatically in the next year or so, improving the energy efficiency of your house adds value to your property.
Still haven't figured out how to have hot water without heat; either you just turn all the radiators off (this doesn't seem to wnat to work with the ones in
Figured out that the thermostat on the wall in the living room does do something after all - it regulates the temperature at which the pump comes on. With the pump off the house will still be heated some, because the hot water will all try to go up, but the pump means we can make lots of warm fast if necessary. So far it seems like the pump works pretty well, in that if it is left at a certain temperature the living room does indeed mostly stay at that temperature.
I've set it to 18C because I'm not feeling so ill with that nasty cold any more and though I'm having a hard time staying warm this year, I'd rather wear two sweaters than turn the heating up. All this talk of gas shortages and some of my students still insist on having their houses at 22C when there are no old/ill people around. Grah. I know an awful lot of gas is used for electricity generation and I know a lot of it is for industrial purposes but it doesn't help to have every household heating the great outdoors, does it? And with insulation what it is in this country, that's probably what happens most of the time.
So, the insulation to-do list, not necessarily in order:
-find where the draught in the loft is coming from and make it stop being a draught. It's probably the same place that bird got in a few weeks ago.
-make fleece curtains for the windows, lower priority goes to the ones in the porch and the loft (the porch has the inside door, and the loft window is double-glazed) than to all the others which are generally wooden sash windows with multiple panes of glass in each window
-draught excluder for the kitchen door
-shiny stuff to go behind radiators
-find various draughts in the kitchen and see if they can be stopped sensibly
-curtains for outside walls, like what
There's already draught excluder on the front door and the loft is insulated.
Warm Front is a UK government program offering grants to households trying to increase their heating efficiency. They offer everything from energy-efficient lightbulbs and hot water tank jackets to financial help with installing things like condensing boilers, loft insulation and cavity wall insulation.
Bear in mind that even if heating costs don't go up dramatically in the next year or so, improving the energy efficiency of your house adds value to your property.
no subject
Date: 2005-11-23 09:59 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 04:46 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 10:51 am (UTC)Does your washing machine have both hot & cold inputs, then? This is actually quite unusual these days - most are cold-only & heat the water as required (which is more efficient).
The council is about to put cavity wall insulation in for us, which is nice. Mostly the house is pretty damn warm, as we have communal heating & get a lot of heat from the flats upstairs/next door (last year we only turned the radiators on for about a fortnight in mid-January, & then only in the living-room). I do need to get a draught excluder for the front door, though, as the downstairs is colder than the upstairs.
Strenuous Agreement here about the correct temperature for thermostats!
Unfortunately, although my *house* is nice & warm, my *office* is unheated (they forgot to put the heating in when they redid it, apparently). I use an electric radiator to stop from freezing, but it's a bit bloody irritating. I am considering bringing a blanket in for my knees...
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 04:41 pm (UTC)Blankets are wonderful things of which I approve. I think every workplace should have them. The views of management may vary.
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 04:46 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 05:07 pm (UTC)I'll have a look next time I'm running around under the kitchen sink; it should be pretty obvious.
I tend to do sheets and towels at 40C most of the time but will do them at 90C every few months or after I've been ill.
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 05:23 pm (UTC)I think part of the comparison is that boilers are set to >40deg, so you have to use a bit of that hotter water & then cool it down by mixing it (i.e. wasting energy by the extra unneeded heat in the water), whereas the washing-machine will heat it to exactly the right temperature. But I am not sure. Certainly it seems more or less impossible to get a dual-input one at the prices we were looking at (not bottom-end, but not expensive), & they all had A or AA ratings (i.e. if it *is* more energy-efficient to use dual-input, it can't be by much).
I am now resisting the urge to go look up about washing machine efficiency on tinternet because we *do* have one now & are not about to buy another one! :-)
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 05:30 pm (UTC)In a situation where the boiler is going to keep making water hot, or if you have a flash boiler, it's almost definitely going to be more efficient to flash-heat the water to 40C in the washing machine itself. That isn't usually the case when I do my laundry.
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 04:22 pm (UTC)we do have a fireplace and use it infrequently. but what we have been tinkering with is seeing if we can use the same chimney for a gasifying pellet stove instead. They now cost roughly what it cost (normal) people to heat a home for a year and a half.
these ones from Delpoint Technologies (http://www.pelletstove.ca) cost abut 1000 pounds stirling and is so efficient (98%) that you don't need a chimney at all--- just a dryer outlet will do!
oh and they burn the pellets at 1800 F (kinda warmer than my chill zone) but hey, in ONtario we're used to chilly weather, we don't have a gulf-stream keeping us heated :p
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 04:37 pm (UTC)I have a small fan heater I might consider running if I'm going to be mostly in one room and don't want to turn the proper heating on. I've used the gas fireplace once this year, mostly to see whether it works. It's odd to think I might end up using that for heating if the electricity goes, even though our boiler is a gas boiler the timer and switch and stuff are controlled by electricity so if the electricity goes out we lose heat. Of course if the electricity goes it will probably be because of a natural gas shortage - a good portion of electricity production in this country is done with natural gas now.
If at some point I stop being unhealthy and start being able to keep myself warm, I might turn the thermostat down some more for the hours when the heating runs, but for now I think 18C is about as low as is going to work. It does get colder than that at night and during the day when the heating isn't on at all, and as it gets colder this will increase.
I grew up on the prairies, mostly, and know a thing or two about the cold myself. Sometimes I feel like it would be better if it went down to -20C here, it would feel properly cold instead of just miserable. But given that most houses here don't have loft insulation or cavity wall insulation, it would be disastrous in terms of energy consumption.
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 05:04 pm (UTC)but until we get the pellet stove, it's long underwear, extra sweaters, and puppy piles!
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 05:36 pm (UTC)If the newspaper would otherwise be recycled then that is probably a better use for it than incineration for heat.
Fireplaces are inherently inefficient, yes, and you'll get a much better heat-to-emissions ratio with a pellet stove, but do think about where the stuff you're burning would go if you didn't burn it. If the stuff would be thrown away to rot anyway, are you actually contributing to any problems by using it to heat your home?
no subject
Date: 2005-11-24 09:10 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2005-11-25 03:10 am (UTC)